Lights turned up it's hard to hide

Spring/Summer RTW 2011

In a nutshell.

The Looks

Clockwise from left: Antonio Berardi, Cushnie et Ochs, D&G, Rodarte, Gucci, Elie Tahari.

So white is the new black. There literally was barely a collection that didn't devour head to toe white. The Berardi suit is exquisite. Block colouring was popular but, then so was a variable mismatch of deliciously retro prints. Some of them took me right back to playing dress up with my mothers clothes. Elie Tahari championed metallics and luxurious fabrics in fresh colours. That blue look is incredible. D&G went gothic. The anti-summer. Being from Ireland, and a fan of summer black I adored this collection, it was refreshing and interesting. Rodarte was just plain cool. Reminded me of the film The Virgin Suicides for some reason. Fairly obvious Van Gogh inspiration. 

All very 90's. There was even a hint of patchwork denim in the Alexander Wang and Charlotte Ronson shows. Patchwork denim always makes me happy.

Hair and Make up

Alexander Wang, Anna Sui, Carolina Herrera, D&G, Derek Lam, Fendi, Jil Sander, Marni, Oscar de la Renta, Rodarte, Thakoon

Hair: Sea-washed, stepford wife, loose, low knots, middle partings, sleeked back like Danny Zuko 'Cady will you please tell him his hair looks sexy pushed back', poodle curls and lots of back-combing, candy floss colouring.

Make up: Minimal, smudged liner, bright lips, blonde brows, heavy metallic shadows and glittering gloss, red eyes, the smoky eye is making a comeback also.

Shoes

Burberry Prorsum, Dolce & Gabbana, Jil Sander, Marni, Mary Katrantzou, Michael Kors, Missoni, Oscar de la Renta, Rag and Bone, Rodarte.

Although it is rumoured that the kitten heel is making a comeback, you won't see any of that here. Go high or go home.

Tiptoe through our shiny city

Fall 2011

Ready to Wear

London

Giles

You know when the second look is a full skirt with a fur underskirt, that the collection is a good one.

Antonio Berardi

Classic cuts and styles with modern and often futuristic fabrics. The texture photographs beautifully. The stud work is innovative and unexpected, yet it fits well with the collection as a whole.

Erdem

Apparently the muse for this collection was a scorned artists wife who destroys his paintings and wears them as clothing. The patterns are definitely art like. I would have liked if the entire collection was the splash-work pattern. A lot of love for the last couple of dresses.

Sass and Bide

Kind of strange for Sass and Bide to choose bright colours for Fall. Given that their trademark for the last few years have been heavily studded leather leggings. They're on Australian seasons though, so maybe not that surprising. Adore all of this. The purples and suede. The feather details are beautiful and I would love one of those necklaces. Hint.

Mulberry

It's classic Mulberry. Preppy, English sophistication. Lots of Peter pan collars, duffel coats, full length dresses with pea coats and, of course, handbags.

Julien McDonald

Victorian gothic. I think I have a bit of a preoccupation with that style. Adore it all. Studying Carmilla in college this week and this is exactly what I imagine her to wear. I'm no vampire but, even I would love to dress like this.

Fashion East

James Long

My favourite of the three. Beautifully crafted. Really felt like a complete collection. It fitted and moved perfectly. Loved the knitwear and the lack of colour. The black and white allowed the form to speak for itself.

Elliot Atkinson

There was definitely a western hunting influence here. The last suit seemed like a bit of an after thought. The fur accents were well executed. Gorgeous.

Simone Rocha

It's structured in how it's unstructured. Contradictory but makes sense in my head. She pulled apart designs and threw them back together. It works. Preppy and yet glamorous.

Charles Anastase

He is an acquired taste. I have definitely acquired that taste. It was the chunky platforms that first made me fall in lust and the image the collection creates that made me fall in love. You get to know his muse with every collection. I want to be her. It's a little more sexy than the oversized draping of previous seasons. It's well developed and subtle enough to not stray from the Anastase vision. Adore the ivorys, the patchwork and the red velvet jumpsuit was made for me.

Shocker about John Galliano right?

Who will replace him?

Haven't been this interested in employment since Carine left Vogue!

What do you think?

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It's hard to keep track of you falling through the sky

Fall 2011

Ready to Wear

New York

Christian Cota

I'm falling more and more in love with Cota with every season. I adore the juxtaposition of structure with texture and print. Rigid suits with velvets, fur and floral. Loose, flowing skirts with deep grey linens.

Rodarte

Beautifully cut. Perfect angles and full skirts. Romantic. The red dress in particular has a very glamorous and charming quality. Same can be said of the gown which wandered through meadows and brought a little bit on to the runway.

Jeremy Laing

It's so cool. So freaking cool. A moonrock dress. I mean seriously, does it get cooler? It's 90's grunge done to absolute perfection.

ADAM

It's very winter in the city. The New York girls wardrobe simply taken and adapted for the colder weather. Layered and perfectly tailored. With a pair of socks, a scarf, some fur or a shawl thrown in. ADAM does not full commit to a harsh winter but takes you gently from the soft femininity of spring into the warm tones of fall.

Diesel Black Gold

Quite utilitarian and military. The suit was taken to a new level with beautiful texture and colour. The aim here seems to be to shield with leather and layering. Intricate and interesting.

Marchesa

I think this is Marchesa's weakest collection for some time. I like the sheer quality and the lace, the ruffles and the texture. It's slightly Victorian, which I love, but it doesn't seem to dedicate to the time and trys to adapt and alter it. This is where Marchesa fails for me.

Rachel Zoe

She's ready to pop but she still puts forward a superb collection. She is evident in every look and as expected the styling is flawless. Very 70's and already snapped up in Bergdorf's. If I was employed I would buy every suit.

Wes Gordon

Glamorous and classic. Beautifully tailored, luxurious fabrics and stunning colour.

The Row

25 pieces were far too few. Adored all of this.

Frank Tell

I loved this collection. The rough animality and the wild chic of it all. The furs are heavenly and the relaxed style of intricate and luxurious is just captivating.

L'Wren Scott

The stand out pieces were the one which stuck to bright colours and clear patterns. Everything else was a little uncommitted and messy.

Monique Lhuillier

The only way to describe this is sexy. Completely alluring. The texture, the dark tones, the lace. The animal print added a lot of vamp. Still true to Lhuillier but moving away from the girlishness of the feminine and into a more sultry ladylike look.

Alexander Wang

Wang toughens the female wardrobe. Oversized coats and large collars combat the elements. Silk and sheer retain the feminine amongst the durable.

Malandrino

Moving into the 70's. Glamorous. Sophisticated. Heavenly colours and patterns. Adore the first look. The French influence, which seems random on paper, corresponds well with the collection as a whole. Loved it.

Theyskens' Theory

An awful lot of trousers. Which I loved. Refreshing after looking through a couple of collections which are just dresses. Very laid back. Thoroughly wearable. Absolutely adored the last dress.

Rag and Bone

70's American sportswear and old British country. An unexpected mix. And maybe it's just because I'm a huge Rag and Bone advocate that to me, this works.

Jason Wu

This collection remained entirely true to the Wu aesthetic. Poise and ladylike elegance just oozed from every piece. What is interesting is in the details. The bow necks. Lace masks. The Use of texture and layered block colour. Another Jason Wu triumph.

Mandy Coon

Severe, stern and harsh were some of the words used to describe this. And yea, it is all of those things. To me though, it's neat grunge. It's the harsh, tough qualities of gothic done in a clean and simple way. I love it.

Derek Lam

The fabrics are definitely the most striking element. The collection is perfectly tailored with playful use of colour. It remains classic, and yet modern and fresh. I'm a little obsessed with the rigid mustard top of the second last dress. Delicious.

Prabal Gurung

Red, blacks, deep pinks dominate a collection of leather, silk and tulle. Opulence is Gurungs forte. He's usually all about structure but this was a bit more free and stripped down than previous collections. Gurung executes this well, he retains his vision in this new phase of design.

Helmut Lang

Loved the pillar skirts. The uneven hems. The silhouettes. The lack of colour. The texture. The boots.

Rebecca Minkoff

The patterns are exquisite. And the jewellery is gorgeous. Unfortunately after the first 10 or so looks things got a little uninteresting. There was a lot of patchwork trousers. Which is nice but after the fourth or so, becomes a little dull. Even the closing garments were not striking or noteworthy. I know it's ready to wear but a collection does have to have a little punch!

Badgley Mischa

It's quite Art Deco and yet early 20th century glamour. Which is my favourite time period. Definitely my favourite New York Collection as a result. There was not a piece I did not love. The leather waist nipping belts are the stuff of my dreams. And a hint of flapper and I am sold.

Sorry it's oh so very late.

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